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LIVE UPDATES -- last update August 8, 2007 @ 4:30 p.m. -- see Darryl's finale!
Our hats are off to Dave Stufflebeam for his wonderful work in securing motel reservations for the entire trip! Thanks Dave from Mike and Darryl and SKIHI Insitute! If you need to contact me, use DrASL@aol.com and gatorsi@tmail.com We were still in limbo about the visit to the SKIHI people in Wawa, Ontario and haven't heard anything. MAJOR CHANGE OF PLANS JULY 17, 2007
Wednesday, June 27, 2007
Getting ready to hit the road! Thursday morning, head for Key West (will stop in Boca Raton). Plan to be at the southernmost point of the US at 11 a.m. Friday morning and then head to Tampa, Florida.
Saturday, June 30, 2007
448 miles completed for a total of 1320 miles)
I can't believe it! 1,245 miles all within the State of Florida until I got into Alabama! Left St. Augustine at 1 p.m. Thursday and took I-95 south, then at Ft. Pierce, took the turnpike. Arrived in Boca Raton at about 6 p.m. and stayed in the home of the American Sign Language Teacher Association's President, Glenna Ashton and her husband. Left there at 4:15 a.m. Friday morning (steady rain). Got on turnpike again but a missing sign caused me to miss the turnoff to Key West so I got lost in downtown Miami during daybreak. Had a gorgeous drive to Key West (see picture). Turned around at 10 a.m. from Southernmost Point of the USA.
On the Overseas Highway, I met another Gold Winger. We drove together all the way back to Tampa. Hopefully he will join me next year!
Saturday morning, left Tampa, took Highway 98 along the gulf coast (mostly 4 lanes and deserted) and got onto I-10 before Tallahassee. Cut off at Sneads, went on a gorgeous tree-canopied two-lane road into Alabama. Arrived in Brundidge, AL (antique capital of the state) at 1 p.m. Central Time. Sunday morning, will go to Texarkana, TX. Updates may be unreliable as my computer has been acting up.
So glad I took the ice chest. It stayed mostly in the high 80s and for a short while, in the mid 90s in Alabama. Am well hydrated with 24 bottles of water, 10 pounds of ice, and some of my famous diet coke!
I am not going to stop at Super 8 in Montgomery, AL as I haven't heard from anyone wanting to join us there.
Current plans are to drive from Brundidge, AL to Texarkana, TX and meet Dave. Due to flooding in Texas, we may have to revise our agenda.
Onwards to Alaska with ENTHUSIASM!!!!!!
Sunday, July 1, 2007
Left Brundidge, Alabma under a full moon and 72 degree temperatures at 5 a.m. I was going thru Montgomery and take US 82 but my GPS urged me to take Alabama Road 10 West. Am I glad I did! Can you imagine driving three hours on superb asphalt, two-lane, thru farming areas and small towns and seeing only five or six cars in all that time! You get to see ruins of houses built in the 1800s and also palatial mansions surrounded by immaculate white picket fences, babbling brooks. You also get to see mom and pop restaurants and you know they gotta be good because they cater to locals.
I eventually ended up on Interstate 20 and then took route 79 north from Bossier City, LA to Texarkana, TX. As I was appoaching Bossier City, the temperature went down to an exhiliarating 77 degrees and black clouds roared in from my left. Luckily, I was able to cut North on 79 just when the rain started so I left all that behind me!
Covered 610 miles today and arrived at Super 8 and met Dave Stufflebeam! He had just arrived. He hasn't really been riding for 30 or so years so this trip should be a challenge. His Silver Wing is a beauty! Heard from Darryl and he will hook up with us in Lubbock, Texas.
Pictures will be posted tomorrow night!
Weather Channel shows rain out West but I told Dave that we should expect rain everyday so when it doesn't happen, we will be happy!
I am going to have to keep a lookout for a welding place. I am using a vice grip to hold my trailer's right fender in place. Should take just 15 minutes to get it fixed.
ON TO ALASKA! Hope some of you readers will join us in 2008 or 2009 ... these trips will be a direct route.
Monday, July 2, 2007
Three new pictures are posted. We drove 512 miles today on US Highway 82 ... such a pleasant highway with very little traffic. Where else can you see the home of the Fighting Jackrabbits high school or Maw Maw's Kitchen or a tractor graveyard or many '57 Chevrolets for sale?
We left with temperatures in the low 70s. For the entire day, the temperature stayed in the 70s (sorry about that, last year's group!). There were flash flood watches and we did get caught in rain for about 30 minutes but Dave's and my windshields kept us both dry.
Shortly before Gainesville, TX we stopped at a machine shop and they kindly riveted my loose trailer fender. Past Gainesville, we pulled into a rest stop and found a forlone puppy shivering. I gave that sweet puppy some bottled water and we discovered it was hurt ... all alone and abandoned. Dave asked a UPS truck driver if he knew of a place we could take it and he said a lady lives across the highway whose daughter is a vet so he got her and she came over and gently took the puppy home. We felt better for not leaving that tiny puppy alone. It is really quite an isolated place.
Arrived at Lubbock, TX at a delightful brand new Super 8 hotel. Darryl has not arrived yet.
We are thinking about leaving extra early from Las Cruces, NM on July 4 to beat the heat. That night, July 4, we are to meet with Cindi at the Arizona School for the Deaf and the Blind for a cookout and should see the fireworks from the campus.
As of 8 p.m. Darryl has arrived! What a bike ... tricked out with cargo tubes, sheet metal, and all that! Picture to be posted tomorrow night.
There is an absolutely fantastic restaurant that, in my opinion, is worth the drive to include Lubbock, TX if you are remotely in this area. If you have to make a 300 mile detour, do it! It is the Grand Buffet .. an Asian Buffet! When you walk in, you are greeted by a stunning decor of several horses featuring Xian's Number 2 Chariot standing on top of a circular ceiling fixture. This is absolutely a gastronomicalepicureandelight buffet! It's on the corner of 50th Street and Interstate 27 in Lubbock, Texas. This place absolutely floored me ... and I am the one who created the gastronomicalepicureandelight multi-layered deep dish pizza. I can't stop raving about this place and get this ... it includes sushi, a Mongolian BBQ, shrimp, shellfish, and a pretty mean enchilada, along with pizza, a stunning salad bar, etc. Sumptuous tables and chairs ... and guess the price? Just $6.69 for dinner!!!! Wahooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!
ONWARD TO ALASKA WITH ENTHUSIASM!
Tuesday, July 3, 2007
We left Lubbock at 6 a.m. under clear moonlit skies with a brisk 62 degrees invigorating us! Tooling West on US 82, we took highway 380 to Roswell, New Mexico. We had been paying just $2.69 for gas the past day or so and was surprised to see $3.19 in New Mexico. We wisely did not go to the UFO tourist trap museum and continued west instead.
Staying on US 70 after Roswell, we were mesmerized at how the flora at 7,500 feet was like you would see in Canada and with just a 2,000 foot drop, we were in the arid sparse desert vegetation. We had temperatures in the 70s most of the day.
See our new photos ... you will see Darryl taking a cat nap ... nice and cool spot! Take a close look at his custom made bike! See the sheet metal and PVC piping and the instrument panel!
As we approached White Sands, the temperature quickly rose up to 102 degrees. We spent an hour exploring the sand dunes and headed for Las Cruces, New Mexico for our stop.
We plan to leave early tomorrow morning for Tuscon, AZ and plan to tour the cactus forest just outside Arizona School for the Deaf, then at ASD, we will join a cookout.
I plan to leave the following morning EARLY to visit my dad. The other two will go on to Pasadena and I will hook up with them in Sacramento.
388 miles covered today ... I learned a lesson from last year ... shorter drives in hot weather.
July 4, 2007
After my daily GOOD MORNING! TIME TO HIT THE ROAD wake up call to my sleeping comrades (I have the privilege to sleep on the floor each night due to me being the youngest in the group), we were on I-10 West with the sun rising behind us under cool 72 degree skies.
We took turns being the lead bike crusing at around 70 MPH. As we entered Arizona, we were met with a visa of huge boulders strewn from horizon to horizon. Yes, I will have a 2-hour DVD of this trip available.
We only drove 318 miles today. As we approached Tucson, we were ready to exit on exit 259 on Interstate 10 (that is posted black on white by Super 8 directions) but there was NO EXIT 259 on Interstate 10. Now the problem is that there is construction with ALL EXITS from this point on closed. So, our good humor melted as fast as a pistachio ice cream from Friendly's restaurant in this 108 degree heat (remember that, last year's gang!??). After being forced to continue West for several miles, we finally were able to turn around and got to the motel.
At 6:30 we will be at Arizona School for the Deaf, invited by Cindi Robinson of their SKIHI program, for a cookout. Before that, we will go to Saguaro Cactus Forest for a photo shoot.
Our Pasadena stopover is cancelled. Darryl and Dave are going to continue northwest to Sacramento while I leave real early tomorrow morning (2 a.m.?) to visit my father in Seal Beach, CA. I will hook up with Dave in Sacramento while Darryl visits with his aunt. Darryl will rejoin us in our stop in Grants Pass, Oregon after that.
Darryl and I went to take pictures of Saguro cactus and to the SKIHI camp at Arizona School for the Deaf. It was a balmy 115 degrees when we got there. The vision impaired kids had a great time with July 4 festivies with a water balloon fight. Pictures are posted showing Arizona vegetation and some vision impaired girls thrilled to be on the motorcycle. Also, you will see a watermelon eating contest. This is why SKIHI appreciates people like you sponsoring them. Just go to SKIHI.org and you can make a donation!
Don't expect any updates for the next couple of days until Sacramento stop.
Thursday, July 6, 2007
Wednesday morning, I slipped out of our room as quiet as a deaf mouse and managed not to wake up my exhausted, slumbering comrades. I had planned to leave at 2 a.m. to avoid the heat. Was I wrong! When I opened the door, I was met with a furnace blast of 97 degrees ... and this was 2 a.m. in Tucson, Arizona!
Heading West on Interstate 10, I finally hit pockets of cooler air .. down into the mid 80s.
Entering California after daybreak, the heat quickly climbed into the 100s.
The Gold Wing smoothly handled the spaghetti-like interchanges of Los Angeles and my GPS seamlessly guided me to Los Alamitos, where my dad lives. Los Alamitos greeted me with 72 degrees ocean breezes!
Arriving at 12 noon ... left this morning at 9 a.m. See picture posted today. The first time I visited my dad on two wheels, it was in 2001 on a Helix (yes, even a Helix can make cross-continential trips) and in 2003 it was a Silver Wing.
You really should join me next year ... it is not the years in your life ... it is the life in your years ... you don't stop playing because you become old ... you become old because you stop playing.
Tooling North on Interstate 5, it took about 90 miles to get out of the urban sprawl. Triple digit heat cheerfuly welcomed me into the valley where they grow lots of stuff. As I contemplated the miles and miles of apricot and almond trees, I thought to myself "This agriculture can't be sustainable" ... as I saw jets of water being pumped into the air irrigating the crops. Didn't they teach us in Florida to water our lawns early in the morning to minimize evaporation?
The millions of people in this area are oblivious to the shrinking Lake Powell, the diminishing snow banks in the mountains, and the anemic Colorado River.
Arriving in Stockton, CA, I was beaten by Dave who had arrived 10 minutes earlier. Darryl is visiting family somewhere out west and will rejoin us in Oregon.
This is the hottest day in Sacramento ... but I feel when we arrive on the Pacific Coast Highway later tomorrow morning, it will be worth gazing at the magnificent redwood trees!
Still with enthusiasm ... onwards to Alaska!
July 7, 2007
Happy Birthday, Ms. Stufflebeam from the three of us!
It was an exhilirating 57 degrees when we left Sacramento! We headed North on I-5 then took California 20 to the coast where we continued North on US 101. A dazzling cobalt blue sky (don't ask me how I know 'cause I'm color blind) ushered Dave and me northward with temperatures in the 60s. We spent several hours on twisty roads winding around majestic stands of redwood trees.
At one place, I fastened on a windshield clamp and videotaped Dave as we leaned into turns, some of which were 270 degree turns. The DVD should be spectacular!
The Pacific Ocean greeted us ... we stood in awe at the waves crashing on boulders the size of houses. (See new photos) We then took US 199 into Oregon and finally arrived in Grants Pass, covering 482 miles. The temperature was 90 degrees when we arrived.
Dave and I chowed down at a salad bar, hoping that Darryl would be all right. Much to our delight, we saw his bike at the motel! The windshield is completely gone ... from what I could get from Darryl, it happened on the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco ... apprarently the road surface was so rough the vibration tore it to pieces.
From what Dave told me, Darryl is planning to continue to Prudhoe Bay and then to Key West, FL. It will indeed be a challenge but if Darryl can make it 600 miles today, he can accomplish anything!
Tomorrow, we should be in northern Washington! After this point, updates may be very erratic.
NORTH TO ALASKA FOR US WITH LOTS OF LIFE IN OUR YEARS!
July 8, 2007
After 542 miles, we arrived at the very northwestern tip of Washington State ... Ferndale. Such a splendid drive today! Temperature stayed around 70 degrees all day. For those of you who are sweltering in summer heat, wish you could be with us! We can see Mount Rainier and its snow capped peak from our motel room!
The 2008 and 2009 trips will avoid hot areas of the USA and get you up to glacier country really soon! Hope you will join us soon.
Tomorrow morning, we're off to Canada! On the Fraser River Gorge, there are whitewater rafting opportunities. We will see how things go tomorrow.
Two new photos were added ... one is a closeup look at Darryl's cargo tubes and the other is something you should NOT try on the Alaska Highway <g>.
July 9 and 10, 2007
Yesterday (July 9), we left Ferndale, WA with temperatures in the 60s. Entering Canada, we took the Fraser River Gorge and enjoyed the twisty highway, going through some tunnels. Looking forward to 2009, I am thinking of a full day stop here so we can do some rafting!
After around 555 spectacular miles, we arrived in Vanderhoof, British Columbia.
The next morning (July 10), we were greeted with 54 degree temperatures and headed West on trans Canada highway. We had snow capped mountains in view every hour of these very pleasant 385 miles. The pictures will show you some quaint things ... such as a choice of smoking or nonsmoking ... we love meal times because of these mom and pop restaurants.
The high point today was when we stopped in Smithers, BC and met Sam Henderson and his wife at Eyecandy Custom Cycle. Sam replaced both blown light bulbs in my bike and he custom made a windshield for Darryl's bike. If you are ever in west Canada and you are in need of service, we most highly recommend you contact them at 250 847 4044 or email eyecandycustoms@telus.net and Sam will give you efficient and enthusiastic service! He has a map showing where gas can be gotten ... for example, when you get off TransCanadian highway 16 to go North on 37, there are NO gas stations until you get to Hyder, Alaska ... a distance of 160 miles.
As we turned off onto the Alaska/Stewart highwayj (Highway 37), we had majestic views of towering snow-capped mountains to our left. As we turned off the highway towards Stewart, BC (37A), it started to rain ... not to worry! Tomorrow should be a sunny day for our exploring the glaciers!
Had some halibut at King Edward Hotel dining room.
Darryl is still planning on going to Prudhoe Bay ...
Updates from this point until Wednesday night, July 18 will be sporadic and iffy.
6,000 miles covered so far.
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
We went up the road to Fish Creek Viewing Station but the salmon aren't running yet so there were no bears. I was amazed at the swift, deep current because last time I was here, the creek was so shallow, the salmon had to swim around the exposed rocks on the creek's bottom. Due to lots of snow, the run off was swift. In fact, this area has the Guiness Book of World Record snowfall of over 1,199 inches in 1973!
The road to Salmon Glacier is still blocked by snow so we couldn't drive up to see the glacier. (I have a photo from 2005 showing Patrick Henry viewing the glacier ... isn't it beautiful?) See pictures posted showing us entering Alaska ... Fish Creek ... and the reason why signs posted warning you to watch for falling rocks are to be taken seriously! I got a nice piece of freshly fallen rock to take home for Maureen's rock garden!
Darryl went back east to take photos of Bear Glacier (Dave and I will take pictures tomorrow) and Dave went west back to Hyder to visit the fudge shop!
Our (Mike and Dave) plans are to leave tomorrow for McBride, BC ... and Darryl to go North to Prudhoe Bay.
You readers should join me next year! When I see on TV the weather report of sweltering heat (it was even 100 degrees in Seattle!), and we are enjoying weeks and weeks of 60s to 70s ... ahhhh!!!! Join me on the 7th Florida/Alaska Motorcycle Benefit Run! While you are thinking about it, make a donation to SKIHI.org
We had a great dinner at Bitterwater Cafe! Here are photos. Can you imagine pistachio-encrusted Alaskan halibut? How about a 1930 car in the dining room?
Thursday, July 12, 2007
Our daring travelling companion, Darryl, decided to head North to Prudhoe Bay so we departed him at King Edwards Hotel. He is hoping to get to Fairbanks in two and a half days, then head North to Prudhoe Bay. We wish him best of luck!
Five hundred and ninety-five miles covered today! We left Alaska this morning at 6 a.m., starting with a cup of coffee at a bakery, then headed East on 37A, stopped to look at Bear Glacier, then settled down for an exhiliarating ride in 45 degree weather (doesn't this sound better than your 95 degree heat?). Heading East on 37 (over 200 kilometers with no gas stations), we hooked up on Goldhead Highway 16 East. It warmed up into the 70s while snow capped mountains surrounded us.
It warmed up to the 80s as we went thru British Columbia's capital, Prince George.
At the end of the day, we survived another 200+ kilometer stretch of highway with no rest stops or gas stations and arrived in McBride.
Tomorrow, it is on to Alberta and Sasketchwan.
Friday, July 13, 2007
With enthusiasm, we both (Dave and Mike) left McBride, British Columbia at 6 a.m. under clear skies and 55 degrees (ahhhhhhhhhhh!!!). As we entered Alberta, we were still surrounded by majestic snow capped moutains. We entered Banff National Park on Cross Canadian Highway 16 and took a photo of an elk grazing on the side of the road. (We saw three bears earlier).
Here is a photo of the bright yellow field that you see scattered all over Alberta. I think it is flax.
With temperatures rising into the high 80s, we tooled thru Edmonton, the capital of Alberta and arrived in Lloydminster. We immediately went to Doug & Doug's Honda even though my daughter Katie had called for me a couple of days earlier and they said they were booked solid. I think it was my soulful look when I explained that we were doing a 18,000 kilometer lap of North America and our bikes simply needed an oil change. They gave us our oil change! Thanks to the Honda at 5106 49th Avenue, Lloydminster, Saskatchewan!
As for oil changes, see this picture of the odometer from my '02 Swing when I sold it (at that time, the mechanics said the engine had very strong compression). That is why you, my dear reader, should start using Mobil 1 synthetic oil! Close to 500 miles covered today.
Its off to Manitoba tomorrrow with enthusiasm!
Saturday, July 14, 2007
We left Lloydminster, Alberta with crisp 55 degree temperatures and headed East on Trans Canadian highways and was constantly surrounded by a riot of bright colored yellow fields. Majestic grain silos marched past us, gliding smoothly on the horizon, popping up to the east and disappearing to the west. After 551 delightful mileas with the highest temperature at 79 degrees, we arrived at a small commuity of Minnedosa, Manitoba. No internet, no cell phone service nothing.
Sunday, July 15, 2007
Leaving Minnedosa at 6 a.m. with brisk 52 degree temperatures, we thoroughly enjoyed the Trans Canadian Highway 16/1/17 East. Entering Ontario, we had stunning visas of hundreds of lakes. This was a short day drive, only 370 miles with the temperature topping off at 70 degrees. Here is a picture of a grain silo.
A word of advice for all of you planning to take a cross continent motorcycle trip ... do shorter days. I used to do 800-900 miles a day but the smallest problem will throw a left-handed monkey wrench in your plans. Even with 600 mile days last year, three bikes in our group had some mechanical problems during different days and it caused us to limp into our destinations well past midnight, all good humor gone. The delays caused us to be tired out and we could never fully recover during the three weeks.
So, with 400-500 mile days and a strict start time of 6 a.m. will give you plenty of time to stop and smell the roses, plenty of time to deal with problems, and plenty of time to arrive at your destination with several hours of daylight left.
We are looking forward to splendid lake views and will be sure to spot moose!
We made changes of plans. After Wawa, Ontario, we are going to cut to Fort Wayne Indiana, then Knoxville, Tennessee where we will split paths. See second page of main menu for our new itinery. We're taking the Tail of the Dragon. The Tail of the Dragon at Deals Gap has 318 curves in 11 miles. I will mount a windshield camera and this should be on the trip DVD!
Monday, July 16, 2007
When we arrived at White Fang Motel after 548 miles, we had a very pleasant drive around the northern border of Lake Superior. We stopped to see a large waterfall (see photo). The temperature ranged from 55 to 72 degrees .... ahhhh!
The White Fang Motel is a definite place you want to stop at .... the owners made us feel welcome ... it was almost like being greeted at the Laurel Oaks Bed and Breakfast in Gainesville, FL! And ... lo and behold ... across Highway 17 was a splendid restaurant ... in the middle of nowhere ... packed with locals!
The White Fang Motel's website is www.whitefangmotel.com and it is on Highway 17 south of Wawa. Their phone is 705 856 0344. I recommend this place.
The restaurant across the street is Kinniwabi Pines. I had an incredible scallops and shrimp with roasted aparagus and red peppers and sundried tomatoes over linguini. It was gastronomicalepicureandelightfully great!
Tuesday, July 17, 2007
With a 41 degree temperature welcoming us as we started out at our daily 6 a.m. regimen, we headed south on Trans Canadian Highway 17 headed for Sault St. Marie. In our haste to get to the motel, we didn't gas up .... so when we left, we thought we would find some gas south. WERE WE WRONG! There were no gas stations for 120 miles! Here is a photo of Dave out of gas on the shore of Lake Superior! Good thing I had a spare gas can with me.
Crossing two huge bridges, we entered Michigan and crossed the Straits of Mackinac and tooled down Interstate 75 then US 127 to Lansing, Michigan, then Interstate 69 to Fort Wayne, Indiana. After 601 miles, we were well satiated with the views of rolling farmland changing into the congestion between Detroit and Chicago. The highest temperature today was 78 degrees! At this point, we've had only three hours of rain the entire trip, and that was just a sprinkle!
It is on to Tail of the Dragon tomorrow! We plan to stop at Knoxville, Tennessee where Dave's son will meet us. Still haven't heard from Darryl. If his plans hold up, he should be on his way south from Prudhoe Bay, destination Key West, FL.
Wednesday, July 18, 2007
As for the past three weeks, I roused my slumbering room-mate with a cheerful "Good morning with enthusiasm!" at 5 a.m. We were on the road by 6, after seeing on doppler radar a nasty looking storm bearing down on Ft. Wayne.
We tooled west on Highway 33 and hooked up on I-75 and headed South with the storm clouds receding. A glorious visa of rolling farm land with dairy cows lazily munching the grass greeted us at every turn of the road. I-75 became a canyon between vertical walls of rock as we entered Tennessee. Temperatures ranged from 68 to 88 degrees. When we arrived in Knoxville after doing 470 miles, Dave's son was already here.
I imagine that we will do the Tail of the Dragon tomorrow morning and that Dave will be home day after tomorrow with me arriving in St. Augustine with over ten thousand miles on this 6th annual benefit run. I doubt if anyone will hear me talk of doing another lap of North America. From now on, it's a direct route with average days of 500 miles and no baking hot southwest desert heat of 115 degrees <g>.
On Saturday, I will be going up to Savannah, GA to meet with some folks from SKI-HI.
Thursday, July 19, 2007
At 5 a.m. I woke up Douglas (Dave's son) and Dave with a cheery "Good Morning" and made our customary coffee. (Last night, we tried calling Darryl's home in House, New Mexico a few times to no avail)
At 7 a.m. we arrived at the famed "Tail of the Dragon". It was a perfect time to experience it as early on a weekday, it was quiet. I mounted the camcorder on the windshield and followed Dave all the way to the end. Wait until you see the DVD with its spectacular views from all over the USA!
Leaving Douglas and Dave at the end of the "Tail of the Dragon", I turned off my GPS as it wanted me to go thru Atlanta. I found a route to Asheville, NC and eventually to I-95 in South Carolina. 640 miles later, I arrived home.
I will be posting one or two more pictures soon. One picture has the "Tree of Shame" with pieces of motorcycle mishaps on the Tail of the Dragon all over it. The other has us bright eyed and bushy tailed at the beginning of the "Tail of the Dragon".
Friday, July 20, 2007
Darryl Petrak made it to Prudhoe Bay but his bike overheated due to mud. He had his bike shipped back to Fairbanks. He had it fixed and is heading South and is enjoying himself!
Sunday, July 22, 2007
Received email from Darryl:
No, I am not lost! Just out of contact!
Mike, Dave, and I were in Hyder, AK on the 10th (late) and 11th. Arrived late afternoon on the 10th, in the rain, with half-mile visibility and about 300-1000 foot ceiling, and low fuel. Came over a rise, and saw nothing but Bear Glacier on the left, a large lake dead ahead, and a road disappearing into the lake! Looked like I was riding off the edge of the world! After slowing abruptly, saw the road went down to lake level and guided around the right side.
11th we drove into Hyder, and explored a bit. Still no visibility, so we scrubbed the ride to Salmon glacier and consolidated.
12th Mike and Dave headed east, I headed north to main Alaska. Beautiful road, I saw a mother bear and two cubs, then two other bears, something that looked like a bobcat sized couger -- too far to see clearly -- and three bighorn sheep, 2 adults and a "teen" and quite close -- 50 feet or so!
Friday the 13th got to Beaver Creek, Yukon Terr. -- the westernmost town in Canada. Stopped to check on a motorhome that had slud off the road and rolled its Explorer toad. No one hurt. They said about 2/3 of passing cars stopped to check on them, many of the others waved (They were all sitting calmly in lawn chairs waiting for a wrecker.)
14th arrived in Fairbanks, got all sorts of horror stories on AK 11 / John Dalton Highway / the "Haul Road," and decided to "ride with my head, not my heart" and only try for the Arctic Circle. Did not take a spare fuel can to assure this.
Sun. 15th headed for the Circle, up the Elliott Highway to the head of the Dalton Highway. About 15 miles up was decision time, past that insufficient fuel to return, and I proceeded as road was wet, weather misty, but otherwise not bad. I "told" God that this did not look so bad, and if He was game for me to go the route to Deadhorse, find me a fuel can at Yukon. Got to Yukon River Bridge and NO FUEL for the 7 bikes that arrived almost together. I went in to eat, a bike arrived with 6 gallons of fuel, which was distributed among all outside and they left. When I got out, no bikes, still no fuel. Then gas man remembered they had siphoned a couple gallons from a deadlined truck, so I bought a gas can (as requested) for this, and headed for the Circle. This was enough to get to the Circle and back to Yukon where there was no fuel, or to Coldfoot, which was halfway to Deadhorse. Road was still easily within my skills, so I proceeded on! The road then got much uglier. It had been raining gently for most of the ride. There were a number of really muddy climbs and descents -- shallow 1/2 to 1 inch mud on hard gravel base. Red Wing NEVER SLIPPED on any of these! I could hardly wait for the 100 miles of chip seal that was SUPPOSED to lead into Deadhorse. NOT! Finally got chipseal about 75 miles out, which turned to really ugly road construction 50 miles out -- lots of loose gravel, some of it a couple inches deep. Not a pretty scene for this pavement only rider! Couple light slips in the last 10 miles or so. IT WAS DEADHORSE that almost unhorsed me! 1/2" of wet mud on a very hard, very smooth undersurface, and at 10 mph this is where I almost went down! Got to the hotel with the Tours thru Prudhoe Bay to the Ocean, felt fine! Red Wing had been overheating about every 2-3 miles for about 15 miles, so I checked coolant. On the money! Then I looked at the radiator! Could hardly find it! Mud. MUD! MUD! Problem solved! They do not put water on the ground in Deadhorse, so I had no way to clean it. Thought, "Darryl, you wanted an ADVENTURE! You have had an ADVENTURE! Do you want TWO of them in two days?" Decided no, so I let Carlile Trucking and Alaska Air do the return drive, with no regrets. Cheaper than a crash!
Mon. p.m. picked up Red Wing at the trucking terminal, rode to a car wash, took some pix of my muddy baby, and rough cleaned her up.
Tues. a.m. cleaned and lubed chain, reorganized my saddlebags, and headed east, hoping for Beaver Creek, but only made it to Tok.
Wed. found 5 classic cars at the US Customs -- the first of a group of 16 Model T's and 11 Model A's, which I saw off and on for the next 90 miles.
I seem to have lost a day somewhere . . . I am using memory, not my records
Friday had hoped to get to Ft. Nelson, but got rain, rain, rain. My riding pants are somewhat waterproof, and absolutely windproof, and my raincoat is great, but I was concerned about frostbite on my exposed ankles, and when I ate at Rancheria and found they had a room for $54, I holed up around noon.
Saturday, I realized I could wrap my feet and ankles in shopping bags, and it worked beyond my wildest hopes! I had rain all morning, and while my shoes got soaked, my feet and ankles were completely unaware of all the wet! I made it to Ft. Nelson. The rain quit about half-way there. The Alaska Highway from about 200 miles to 350 miles from Watson Lake (200 to 50 miles from Ft. Nelson) is a lovely up and down, curve and swoop road (except for two steel grate bridges. Red Wing has fits with them!) with an incredible batch of wildlife! I quit counting, but roughly 125-150 buffalo -- a huge herd + 3 + 11 + 1; 4 caribou, 3 bears, a dozen or more sheep (I think Bighorn, but possibly Dall), a couple Dall sheep. My main cupholder brackets broke, but I got to Ft. Nelson 5 minutes before the Ace Hardware closed, and got the repair parts. It had been giving increasing trouble for several days.
Pat and Kay Noland were right -- I am addicted! The last two rainy days were ugly, but I was basically enjoying myself anyway!
This will probably be last update until I get home -- late Thursday earliest, and since that is five 600's in a row, it is a bit (to a lot) doubtful. Red Wing is just purring, and seems to be getting better fuel economy as the trip wears on. Getting more broken in?
Monday, July 23
Today I got a late start from Ft. Nelson, stopped at Mile Post 0 of the Alaska Highway in Dawson Creek, and continued until I got rained into Chetwynd about 60 miles down the road. 40 mins later, 90% sun, just like New Mexico. An hour or two later, we are getting rain again! If I had been on time to start, I would have been at the pass west of here when they were "getting it!" -- There are two ways here from Fort St. John, and the other one got washed out today -- possibly the same storm that clobbered that pass? I will prepare for rain tomorrow even if it looks nice. Bike is running like a watch. I am having a great time!
Darryl's recap
Major-tour on a Mini-tourer Darryl Petrak rides his 2006 EN500 from New Mexico to Alaska and back
I have long seen that small bikes are under-appreciated and under-rated. Reading about an Iron Butt “48 Plus” led to a dream of a 49 state ride on my Honda Rebel 250. Two crashes (too much stuff on too small a bike) led to the smallest step up I could make. My EN500 Vulcan was purchased in November, 2006 and customized into a long tourer for my Grand Adventure, combined with Mike Tuccelli’s Sixth Annual Alaska Bike Run Charity Ride for deaf infants (www.AlaskaBikeRun.com). I also ride for Habitat for Humanity International and my local affiliate, HFH of Roosevelt and Curry Counties, donor‘s choice(s).
Monday, July 2, this third try at a Grand Alaska Adventure began with a bang when I awoke from a “flicker doze” about 8 inches from a curb! BANG! Low side spill preserved my record -- three tries, three crashes! After repairs and bandaging two knee scrapes, I intercepted Mike and Dave Stufflebeam in Lubbock, TX.
July 3 Dave and I dressed for the warm and sunny southwest which did not rescue our shivering bodies from the fog and mist until about 40 miles into New Mexico. US 82 in eastern New Mexico showed some weird landforms while delivering us to White Sands National Monument enroute to Las Cruces, where the family of a family friend treated me to dinner.
July 4, our nation’s birthday, was a short day to Tucson, AZ, where Mike and I drove by a thick collection of saguaro cactus and then “collected“ on an invitation to a program and barbeque at the Arizona School for the Deaf and Blind. Several students reveled in getting to sit on one or both of our bikes. Much of the ASDB work is based on Ski Hi Institute work, the beneficiary of Dr. Tuccelli‘s Alaska Bike Run.
July 5, we scattered -- Mike to visit his dad south of San Diego, me to visit a dear and long unvisited Aunt south in King City, and Dave on his “mini-tourer” Honda Silver Wing riding to Sacramento and our Grants Pass, Oregon rendezvous. Dave and I endured 110-122° from 10a.m. to end of day crossing the Mojave Desert! I thought I would burn my arms -- BURN burn, not sunburn! I suggest keeping the liner in one’s jacket in hot sun -- insulation works two ways! Dave and I now understand the heat our troops in Iraq get!
July 7 my damaged windshield died completely in turbulent winds east of San Francisco as I saw THOUSANDS of bikes headed for the opening weekend of the Hollister motorcycle meet -- a sort of California Sturgis! We all made it to Grants Pass for the night as planned.
July 8 did I-5N to Ferndale, WA through hundreds of square miles of evergreen forest! The pine beetle has killed enormous numbers of trees. I was raised in Iowa, and I still love GREEN!
July 9 we entered Canada at Abbotsford, reveling in MILES of lovely motorcycle road through the valley of the white water Fraser River! We were introduced to the l-l-o-o-n-n-g-g distances between fuel in this part of the world. We found pay-at-the-pump is not very common in Canada, but TRUST IS! Pump without pre-pay! So refreshing! We also found speed limits in kilometers/hour, fuel in liters and $4-5 fuel prices.
July 10 Mike solved a headlight problem and I got a stopgap windshield at Eye Candy Custom Cycle Shop in Smithers, BC where they warned us to never go by a gas stop. Separated by a picture stop, I found the poorly marked BC 37A and hit gentle but steady rain for the final 62km/39 miles. I topped a rise to see “fright sight,” the massive Bear Glacier to my left front, and the road curving downward directly into a large lake! I thought I was riding off the edge of the world! Slowing down, I could see the road descend steeply and curve to the right around the lake, after which I felt a whole lot better, then caught Mike and Dave in Stewart, BC.
July 11 our Hyder, AK exploration was crimped as Misty Fiords National Monument across the estuary lived up to its name!
Thursday, July 12 Mike and Dave headed east, and I popped back to Hyder for a couple pictures now that we actually had sun! One bar in Hyder is “wallpapered” with some $70,000 of signed, addressed money from all over the world! BC 37, the Cassiar Highway, is a beautiful road, good for a half-dozen bears and three bighorn sheep up close -- 50 feet or so! This is a gorgeous curvy, rolling road past pine tree scenery and an astonishing number of LARGE lakes and rivers! Again, fill up with fuel at every opportunity! The next stop may not have fuel or be recently closed or be closed for the night (no pay-at-the-pump, remember?).
July 13 found me at Mike’s highly recommended Mukluk Annie’s Salmon Bake too early for the salmon menus. The Haines Junction to Beaver Creek road was very pitchy, and Red Wing bottomed regularly, but gently enough that nothing broke.
July 14 I entered Alaska in just 13 miles and found a Post Office whose Postmaster is from Tucumcari where my wife works! At my friendly dealer, I heard enough horror stories on AK 11 / John Dalton Highway / the "Haul Road," I decided to "ride with my head, not my heart" as my super-wife Pat requested, and only try for the Arctic Circle.
July 15th I found the Arctic Circle road was not bad in spite of light rain. I noted this to God, and that if He was game for me to go the route to Deadhorse, He would have to find me a fuel can at Yukon Bridge. Got there, NO FUEL. Located some fuel siphoned from a dead-lined truck, AND A FUEL CAN! I arrived at the Arctic Circle, 66°33’ north latitude, trip mile 5435, around 8:30pm Alaska Daylight Time, and read the markers. With fuel for Yukon where there was no fuel, or Coldfoot, halfway to Deadhorse, I chose FORWARD! There is really no way to describe the feeling of having mid-day light levels at 9p.m.! At Gates to the Arctic National Park and Preserve in Coldfoot, I got an up to the MINUTE weather report from two Rangers working late and decided to “Just Do It!” Here I talked with two truckers who said the rest of the road was similar, except the infamous “Slide Path” and some road construction.
July 16, after my midnight fuel and meal stop, with the road and weather still within my skills, I proceeded! The road got uglier! The steady rain made for muddy climbs and descents, each one bigger until the noted “Slide Path,” a “corduroy road“ of lengthwise ridges as if the road were made of logs about 4” in diameter. Red Wing occasionally drifted ridge to ridge, but NEVER SLIPPED! Again, the light at this high latitude was amazing, never dropping below what the lower 48 would experience perhaps 1½-2 hours before sunset. I only saw one caribou on the entire road, right ahead of me, and only managed one picture. Except for about 25 miles, my promised 100 miles of chip-seal did not materialize, but 50 miles of the ugliest road construction I had on the entire trip did! IT WAS DEADHORSE and wet mud on a hard, very smooth undersurface that almost unhorsed me! Red Wing had been overheating about every 2-3 miles for about 15 miles, traced to the muddiest radiator I have ever seen! They are not allowed to put water on the ground in Deadhorse, so I had no safe way to clean it. At lunch I just WILTED! I could hardly lift a fork! I thought, "Darryl, you wanted an ADVENTURE! You HAVE HAD an ADVENTURE! Do you want TWO of them in two days?" I decided to be grateful for the safe, slip-free ride from the Lord and not to stretch His patience trying for a repeat! I elected to, “Ride with my head, not with my heart!“ and let Carlile Trucking and Alaska Air do the return drive. But I was not myself -- I totally forgot pictures until Red Wing’s truck departed, so I have no picture of Red Wing or me in Deadhorse! I took some belated pictures of the town (which looks like a construction site). Interestingly, both truckers I met at Coldfoot worked for Carlile, I saw them both in the Deadhorse terminal, and one of them drove Red Wing’s truck back to Fairbanks!
July 17, I slept in. People could not believe I actually rode the Haul Road IN RAIN AND MUD, and at times I am not sure myself, but Red Wing had the muddy radiator to prove it! Around 4p.m., I gave up on Red Wing being delivered as planned and picked her up directly, took some pix of my muddy baby, gave her a rough and ready bath, and went to the Pioneer Park Salmon (and halibut and cod) Bake.
July 18, I cleaned and lubed the chain, repacked saddlebags, took some Santa and reindeer pictures at North Pole, AK, and proceeded toTok. As much as I bump my little helmet on doors, I have no idea how reindeer, deer, elk, moose, etc. manage to do ANYTHING with those 2 foot high by 2 foot long by 4 foot wide racks!
July 19 I admired 5 classic cars at U.S. Customs -- the first of 16 Model T's and 11 Model A's spread over the next 90 miles. And still more I was overwhelmed with how BIG this part of the world is! One can, and does, drive for DAYS through forest / lake / river country that is miles deep on both sides of the road.
July 20 Rain, rain, rain, wet ankles, and concern for frostbite ended my day at Rancheria, after a nightmare crossing the Teslin River steel grate bridge! Red Wing does NOT like steel grate bridges, in the dry; wet is worse! Again I passed Mukluk Annie’s too early for her specialties.
July 21 I discovered that wrapping feet and ankles in plastic shopping bags works beyond my wildest hopes! Soaked shoes, dry and happy feet and ankles brought me to Watson Lake’s SIGNPOST FOREST. The rain quit, and I was thrilled by seeing at least 150 animals, mostly buffalo and Bighorns, on the motorcycle quality road to Ft. Nelson, with a meal stop at the 7500 hat ceiling restaurant in Toad River.
July 22, I planned for, and got, rain, and surrendered to it in Chetwynd, well short of my Price George goal.
July 23, I looked at the sky and prepared for rain with a new set of plastic bag “super-socks!“ “Then the Rains Came!“ just past Pine Pass. Closing my big Canada loop in Prince George, I headed east toward Alberta and British Columbia’s FourPlex of National Parks (Jasper, Banff, Yoho, Kootenay). In McBride, I took some pix of a chain saw carver at my fuel stop. An 18-24” bear takes him about an hour and a half. Entering Jasper Nat. Park and Jasper village toward evening, I was stunned by $160 motel rates! Weather south looked acceptable, so I rebelled and drove on, figuring the next motel could not be worse! But the weather could! About 20 miles out, I found that “Caution! High Mountain Road! Sudden Weather Changes!” signs are serious, as the light rain re-appeared as I drove the “Ice-field Highway.” I did get a couple breaks and pix when I could keep the camera dry, but dark and short visibility stopped me at “The Crossing” shortly after I entered Banff National Park. I did miss the hail some areas received. The gas station guard / attendant graciously opened a company Chevy Van, where I spent the night reclined in the passenger seat. Ah, the joys of a roof that does not leak!
July 24 I woke up at 5:40 in my “Chevy Van Motel,” ate breakfast, bought refrigerator magnets for grandchildren Athan and Allie, and exited through Kootenay National Park. My Radium Hot Springs, BC, gas pump had this MARVELOUS sticker showing a gasoline dollar (Canada, 2006) goes 48% cost of crude, 35% taxes, 15% refining / marketing / transportation, and 3% profit for all levels. Met a local about my age South America who plans to buy a dual-sport bike and ride to Tierra Del Fuego at the southern tip of South America! I wished him the best, but BETTER HIM THAN ME! Also I met two of the bikers who pulled into Yukon Bridge when I did! Small world! I re-entered the U.S. at Roosville and drove Glacier National Park’s “Highway to the Sun” over Logan Pass. Now I know what the Bible means by, “the people’s hearts melted!” On the outside lane of this very narrow road all the way up and all the way down, my confidence evaporated as I considered the dropoffs! I was terrified, hugging the yellow line except when meeting traffic! I did see two impressive Bighorn rams, and one waited to mug for my camera! At my motel in Browning, MT, I found that the electric tape which comes off so nicely after 12 hours is not nearly so cooperative after 36! I still have 4 scabs and red areas as reminders!
July 25 lubing the chain after four days of rain eliminated odd noises and low speed shudders, and I “made tracks” to Idaho Falls, DRY ALL DAY!
July 26 was two days with no rain! Red Wing and I hardly knew how to act! After a 40 minute mini-adventure finding Utah State University’s Ski Hi Institute, Fran Payne, Sue Watkins, Beth Gill and I gabbed awhile before they took me to the “source” for locally famed “Aggie Ice Cream” (very good) and a barbeque sandwich (also most worthy). US 89 is as lovely as Fran and Sue said it is, and I-15 let me cruise through the Salt Lake City metro area at 75mph, ending in Moab, UT.
July 27 I drove through some badly needed road construction on US 491, and had another “mini-adventure” with my highway change to NM 44, which, unbeknownst to me, had been renumbered NM 550! Fortunately I checked quickly and only had to backtrack about 2 miles. I used all of the 75mph limit on I-25S and I-40E to Santa Rosa, with a short pause when my faithful stopgap windshield decided it had had enough 75mph, and with a soft “pop,” gently folded itself back against my water cup just 112 miles from home, after 6128 faithful miles, over half the trip! A final fuel stop and light meal at Love’s in Santa Rosa, and a phone call home so Pat would know when to expect me, and I was on the final leg! Dorothy (Wizard of Oz) is still correct, “There’s no place like HOME!” as I arrived at 7:35pm.
9874 odometer miles; 26 days; 11 states; 3 provinces; 2 countries; 7 parks; about 200 animals
Interestingly, the further north I went, the more bikes there were! In places, it was nearly all recreational vehicles and motorcycles, almost as if Alaska is a pilgrimage for motorcyclists! Most were Harleys, numerous dual-sports (Kawasaki KLR, BMW GS, Suzuki V-Strom), many touring bikes were doubled up.
And the big question: How is the EN500 as a tourer? Completely satisfactory. Red Wing and her 100# of gear mowed down any slope under 6% at under 6000 feet in 6th gear, and ate up at least 11% (I had never seen one of these before) in 5th. At 6000-8000 feet, 5th gear ate up everything! Fuel economy was a bit over 50mpg and seemed to be improving a bit as Red Wing is clearly not fully broken in yet. Red Wing (OE front tire, Metzler 880 rear) despises steel grate bridges, especially when wet, but rode gently and slip free up the entire muddy Haul Road until the deep loose gravel in the road construction. The radiator needs better shielding from mud coming off the front tire. No single traveler should really need more.
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